Categories
PIcture Frame Hanging

Bifurcated Rivets with D-Rings

Bifuricated RivetSometimes you may find yourself using a moulding that is just way too narrow to attach a screw and D-Ring to. If you do, the rounded edge of the D-Ring can end up being visible from the front of the frame when hanging on the wall, which isn’t pleasant to look at.

One alternative is to continue to use D-Rings but instead of screwing the D-Rings to the frame, you can attach the D-Rings to the backing board by using Bifurcated Rivets. This is method I’d recommend for lighter frames only as there is a finite strength to MDF backing boards. The Bifurcated Rivets come in both nickel plated and brass plated finishes and require no specialised hardware to fit (a ruler, pencil, bradawl, screwdriver and hammer will suffice).

The procedure for attaching them to the backing board is as follows –

MDF Backing Board Measured for Bifurcated Rivets 1. Select a backing board at least 2mm thick MDF. (a relatively solid material). Mark the two points where the rivets are going to go (about 1/3rd way down from top and about 30mm in from sides)
 Use a bradawl to punch holes through the MDF 2. Use a bradawl to punch holes through the MDF at your measured points. make the holes close to 3mm in size – just wide enough so as to allow the bifurcated rivets to push through.
D-Ring with Bifurcated Rivet 3. Push the rivet through the hole of the D-Ring and then through the hole you have made in the MDF.
Splaying a Bifurcated Rivet 4. Turn the MDF over to see the rivet protruding from the other side of the board. Place the D-Ring and Rivet head on an old wooden off cut, and place a screwdriver over gap in the rivet legs.
Bifurcated Rivet Legs 5. Hit the screwdriver shaft with a hammer to start to splay the rivet legs.
Splayed Bifurcated Rivet 6. Take away the screwdriver and splay the rivet further apart with a hammer. Flattening the rivet legs against the board. If you are not using a barrier board between the backing and the artwork, then at this stage you should tape over these ends as they may push against the artwork (which is really not desirable). I recommend using a mount board or similar barrier layer of acid free board between the artwork and the backing board.
D-Rings attached by Bifurcated Rivets 7. Repeat with other D-Ring.
Finished Frame Backing wiht Bifurcated Rivets and D-Rings 8. Assemble the frame and finish tying picture cord between the two D-Rings. Congratulations the picture frame is now ready to hang.

 

 

 

Categories
frameless picture clips and clip frames

Frameless Clips, Swiss Clips and Clip Frames

Swiss Clip Clip Frame
A clip frame sandwich held together with Swiss Clips

We sell a lot of frameless clips which are used to create a frameless picture or clip frame.

The clip frame should consist of a ‘frame sandwich’ of –

  • Glass/perspex
  • A picture mount (optional)
  • Artwork
  • Backing mount for art protection (optional)
  • Backing board (Usually hardboard or MDF for strength).

The clip frame has its use where either you don’t want to go to the expense of having a frame for your artwork, or you would like to have artwork displayed right to the edge of the frame.

Clips can accommodate sandwiches of different thicknesses. In order to find out how thick your sandwich is just total the thickness of each part of your sandwich eg. (glass 2mm + mount 1.4mm + art 0.1mm + backing mount 1.4mm + backing board 2.0mm = 6.9mm, so I’d likely need to use the 7.5mm swiss clips or the 8mm frameless clips).

Glazing should always be smoothed around the edges to avoid exposing sharp edges. Glass in particular can be very sharp when left raw after a cut so make sure to smooth the edges of the glass  before using it in a frameless clip frame, a Tellum pad is ideal for this purpose.

There are several clips available to you for holding the frameless/clipframe sandwich together and there are also a few options available for hanging the frameless clip frame too –

Clip Name Max Sandwich Thickness Uses Notes on Use Hanging Options

Simple Frameless Clip

Simple Frameless Clips

4mm max Small clip frames Easy to just push on.Useful in small applications, but no securing mechanism.
3.8mm Frameless Clip3.8mm Frameless Clips 3.8mm (clips are 3mm wide) Tiny / small clip frames Requires a Pair of Levers to open. No hanging attachment. No securing mechanism.
8mm Frameless Clip8mm Frameless Clip 8mm (clips are 7mm wide) Small / medium sized clip frames. Requires a Pair of Levers to open. No hanging attachment. No securing mechanism.
20mm Frameless Clip20mm Frameless Clips 8mm (clips are 20mm wide) Medium / larger sized clip frames. Where extra strength and rigidity is required. Requires a Pair of Levers to open. No hanging attachment. No securing mechanism.
7.5mm Swiss ClipSwiss Clip 7.5mm 7.5mm max. Small / medium clip frames. Requires a small hole to be drilled into backing board in order to lock each clip in place. Hole position : 27.5mm in from side.
10mm Swiss Clip with Hanging HoleSwiss Clip 10mm 10mm max. Medium / large clip frames. Requires a small hole to be drilled into backing board in order to lock each clip in place. Hole position : 27.5mm in from side. Has it’s own hanging loop as part of the clip.
11mm Swiss ClipSwiss Clip 11mm 11mm max. Medium / large clip frames Requires a small hole to be drilled into backing board in order to lock each clip in place. Hole position : 27.5mm in from side.
Categories
picture cords and picture wires

Brown Picture Hanging Cord

Brown Picture Hanging CordWe now have in stock brown picture hanging cord. It comes in –
Brown Picture Hanging Cord No.1,
Brown Picture Hanging Cord No.2,
Brown Picture Hanging Cord No.3
varieties/sizes. It has similar strength and characteristics as white picture hanging cord, but it is made in polypropylene. It does look very handsome on the back of a quality framing job. The colour of the cord would suit the bronze coloured D-Rings, but would also look good with Brass plated D-Rings too.