The contents of a picture frame – including the glass/mountboard/artwork/backing board “sandwich” – is commonly secured into the back recess of a picture frame using picture framing tabs and points. The points can be manually pushed in with a screwdriver (certainly an easier task with a soft wooden moulding), or pushed in with a point fixing tool, or can be fired in with point drivers (tab guns).
Flexi framer tab
The tabs and points themselves come in a variety of styles (triangular, narrow with a point), sizes and rigidity (flexible, semi-rigid, rigid). The more rigid points won’t bend easily and will help to securely hold the contents of a frame in place (in conjunction with a brown frame backing tapes). Flexible points/tabs can be bent (without removal of the tabs from the frame) which allows easy access to the contents of a frame (say to change the artwork, mount or remove some dust), before bending the points flat again to re-secure the contents.
Point drivers are a fast way to drive points into the rebate at the back of the picture frame and are a must-have tool for any framer from a keen hobbyist to a small workshop based framing business. Some industrial point drivers can be pneumatic but are larger and designed for larger volume production environments.
Handheld point drivers are spring-loaded, easy to set up and fired by pulling the hand trigger which drives a point into the side of the frame rebate. Complete frames can be secured with multiple points driven in around the frame in an operation that can often be achieved in under one minute.
We have added sizings to our ever expanding range of picture rail hooks. We now have secondary images (shown below) that show side profiles pictured with a rule measure beside them for clarity. Hopefully this aids your decision about the correct style for your picture rail as there are many different sizes and profiles out there.
This how to guide shows how you seal and finish the back of a picture or photo frame prior to hanging or selling.
The purpose of finishing the back of a frame is to –
Seal it to prevent dust, mites and damp from entering the mount/artwork/under the glass
Make it appear professional and neat to the eye
Provide hanging points to hang the picture
Provide stability from motion and wall protection
The assumption in this article is that you already have a picture frame either custom made or pre-made with glazing, mount and backing board cut to size and attached. The backing board should also be able to provide some degree of moisture protection eg aqua board or similar.
The methodology for finishing the back of a picture frame is as follows –
Step 1 :
Secure the backing board, mount, artwork, and glazing ‘sandwich’ in to frame rebate with flexi points, semi rigid points or other similar framer’s points and tabs. these can be fired in with a tab gun or manually pushed in.
Step 2 :
Use a picture frame backing tape like self adhesive ECO-15 or ECo-25 tape on each edge to make the dust seal. Trim the tape with a craft knife after completing each side, being careful not to damage the side of the frame.After taping and trimming the tape edge on all four edges it should look like this –
Step 3 :
Measure the sides of the frame 1/3 of the way down from top edge, mark with a pencil or bradawl, then create a shallow starting hole in the frame with the bradawl. Repeat on other side of frame so you have two matching holes for starting a screw thread on each side of the frame moulding.
Step 4 :
Attach a D-Ring to each side of the frame using a pan headed screw to hole it in place.
Step 6: Attach two felt or other similar bumper pads to each lower corner of the frame. This will help stop the frame moving on the wall as well as help prevent the frame from marking the wall. It will also create an air gap and allow air to circulate behind the frame.
The picture frame backing process is complete and it’s time to hang your picture on the wall!
A commonly asked question is what picture cord knot works best for hanging a picture frame? To answer this we first have to ask what are the desirable features of a picture cord knot?
The following are some desirable features of a picture knot –
Won’t untie (self tightening)
Won’t sag (so you can hang several pictures simultaneously in a line)
Will look neat and tidy (for a professional finish)
Won’t fray at the ends
Sagging can be minimised by using low stretch picture cord, you can then decide on the choice of knot.
One knot that meets the above criteria can be achieved as follows –
Attach D-Rings to back of frame (1/3 way down each side)
Cut cord to 3 x the width of the frame and feed cord through D-Rings as shown below –
Position the cord as follows –
Arrange the cord like follows –
Loop the right hand side back under to the left side as shown below –
Feed the right hand end through the loop that you just created as shown below. Pull either ends of the cord away from each other until knot tightens, change directions of pulling by 1800 and pull again in opposite direction to tighten –
The knot and the cord should be tight, and not able to slip out or slacken –
Tie a few ‘granny knot’ L over R, then R over L to secure the underlying knot –
Secure by wrapping small piece of ECO-15 tape around the tied ends –
Use a craft knife to cut through the cord wrapped in ECO-15 tape –
The finished cord/knot combination should have a nice clean looking finish, and should provide a tight and secure cord to hang the picture via a picture hook on the wall –
Pictures are most commonly hung using a pair of D-Rings screwed onto the back of the each side of wooden (or plastic) picture frame. They provide attachment point loops that picture cord or wire can be then be strung between. The cord or wire can then be used to hang the frame from a picture hook (nail, screw or similar) that is attached to the wall.
Single hole D-Rings are the most basic form of hardware for this purpose. They are useful for most frames up to about 0.5m wide. Wider than 0.5m but < 1m or when using a heavier frame/moulding, then double D-Rings are advised, they are more robust than single D-Rings and have two screw holes.
The Procedure for attaching D-Rings to a picture frame –
Apply frame backing tape around each back edge for the frame/backing board to seal the frame from dust mites and dampness.
Measure approximately 1/3 of the distance down on one side of the frame and mark with pencil/pen. Measure down the other side the exact same distance and mark again.
Use a bradawl to poke a small hole into the frame backing at this mark on each side, this will provide a start for the screws.
Line up the D-Rings and screw with the pre started holes and screw the D-rings into place. The D’s (loops) of the D-Rings should be facing each other.
Tie a cord between each D-Ring and secure with a knot. Alternatively, wire and ferrules can be used instead.
Finish the cord ends off with a bit of frame backing tape to stop them fraying.
We are now stocking a quality ‘X’ Picture Hook range. The hooks are a strong grade steel, brass plated, and come supplied with quality knurled brass headed hardened pins. They come in four sizes –
Ten years on from starting our e-commerce site in 2007 and we find that the way people access the internet has evolved with many (if not the majority) now using mobile devices (smart phones, ipads, tablets etc). We have released a newly redesigned website along with new branding to reflect this change. It has a more modern look, easier navigation and includes both mobile and desktop versions which are designed with user experience on touch screen devices in mind. We hope you like the changes and hope they help with your shopping experience.
A a heavy duty picture hook that limits quick removal of a frame. the hook allows the wire or hangers on the picture frame to slide into the hook. The clip then resists removal unless it is lifted and pulled at a certain angle.
Gloves and Hand protection, including disposable latex gloves and heavier duty gloves for tougher tasks around the workshop. Very useful when handling paint, dyes or inks.
A rubber dust blower/puffer which can greatly help the removal of dust on a picture mount under the glass. Slightly lift the glazing and blow the dust spec away.
A handy dispenser for parcel tape. Takes 50mm wide parcel tapes (both clear and brown). The end is always ready to use. As you finish your dispensing stroke a sharp serrated blade cuts the tape.
We have a selection of cutting Mats available. The smooth surface allows fine blades to penetrate without blunting. It is ideal when trimming prints. Small cuts almost disappear.
A quality masking tape, which tends to be thicker than most masking products currently used. Cream in colour, with an aggressive white adhesive system. This Masking Tape is ideal for wet painting and spray painting. It is used quite often as temporary tape during the creation of double mounts. Dimensions : 25mm x 50m.
Fillet Tape is a polyester double sided archival tape which acts as an acid barrier between the two surfaces it bonds. This Fillet Tape has a strong acid free adhesive which has very high tack making this a permanent tape which does not yellow over time. This Archival Tape is designed to attach the fillet or slip to the picture mount in the framing industry. Also works very well attaching and holding slips firmly to a frame. Not compatible with tape guns, but very easy to use. Dimensions : 6mm wide by 50m long.
This is a white, gummed, acid free (pH 7 neutral) tape. This high quality textured Linen Tape is backed with water activated gum. The high thread count of the linen cloth gives this tape its strength. Gummed archival linen hinging tape is mainly used to hinge mounts(mats) to backing boards and is used widely in the framing and art conservation industries. Our Gummed Linen Archival Tape has a pH neutral, starch based adhesive which sets flat and has high tack. Size: 24mm wide, 20metres long.
Permanent adhesive, Ph neutral double sided tape 12mm x 30m. Conservation Ph neutral double sided tape ATG tape gun compatible although a tape gun is not required to use it. 12mm wide by 30m length. Ph neutral tapes are acid neutral, they use a water based acid neutral acrylic adhesive system which will not react with board or papers and can hence be used for conservation purposes. Will fit most Automatic Tape Guns (ATG) dispensers.
Double sided roll of adhesive tape. Suitable for ATG tape guns, although a tape gun is not required to use it. Size: 19mm wide by 33m long. Non acid free adhesive. We now stock both 12mm and 19mm versions.
A self-adhesive flexible sealing tape is used by many framers. It gives a cost effective yet attractive finish to the back of the frame. The flexibility of the ECO tapes, allow them to be easily shaped over the rebate steps at the back of the frame. ECO-25 tape is similar to ECO-15 tape in almost every aspect except that it is thicker, stronger, and more opaque, but also a bit more expensive.
The Angled-D-Ring Hanger (one pair L+R) gives you the security of a two-screw fixing on all types of moulding, including narrow patterns. The D-ring is angled to give the correct alignment of the cord or wire, minimising stress in the frame.
A canvas frame picture stand for small stretched canvases up to around 300 x 300mm (12” x 12”). The stand fixes with one screw and is easily bent to make the stretched canvas print stand at any chosen angle. It is designed to fit into the hollow back of the canvas frame. Dimensions: 75mm x 15mm, zinc plated steel. Included with bumpers and screws.
For making small and medium sized flat graphic panels of Aluminium, Acrylic, Di-Bond, Glass, Steel and similar free stand on a surface. The panel stand clips into the supplied steel self-adhesive base plate stuck onto the back of the panel. The stand is easily bent to fine adjust the standing angle. Dimensions: panel stand 75mm long, base plate is 80x40mm.
Packaging for picture frames, including handywrap, handy wrap handles, cardboard picture frame corner protectors and packaging tape. Useful for the packaging, protection and transportation of picture frames safely. Also useful for presentation of completed frames when ready to return to customer as it can create a professional touch.
Picture Perfect Wireless Magic Marker Hanging System™. Picture frame hanging made easy. Hang your picture frames quickly and easily with these benefits –
– Pictures are hung exactly where you want them, the first time and level
– No more measuring or marking, no pencils, tape measures, wire or calculations needed
– Eliminate guesswork and trial-and-error measuring
– Reduce wasted time
– No D-rings, saw-tooth hangers, picture cord or wire is required
– Position the framed art exactly where you want it
– Your framed artwork will remain safely and securely in place and permanently level
– Fits most wooden or plastic frames of => 16mm (5/8″) width
The contents of a picture frame – including the glass/mountboard/artwork/backing board “sandwich” – is commonly secured into the back recess of a picture frame using picture framing tabs and points. The points can be manually pushed in with a screwdriver (certainly an easier task with a soft wooden moulding), or pushed in with a point fixing tool, or can be fired in with point drivers (tab guns).
Point drivers are a fast way to drive points into the rebate at the back of the picture frame and are a must-have tool for any framer from a keen hobbyist to a small workshop based framing business. Some industrial point drivers can be pneumatic but are larger and designed for larger volume production environments.
Clamps
Poly Grip Seal Bags
