How to Hang a Picture Frame : D-Rings

brass single d-ringPictures are most commonly hung using a pair of D-Rings screwed onto the back of the each side of wooden (or plastic) picture frame. They provide attachment point loops that picture cord or wire can be then be strung between. The cord or wire can then be used to hang the frame from a picture hook (nail, screw or similar) that is attached to the wall.

Single hole D-Rings are the most basic form of hardware for this purpose.  They are useful for most frames up to about 0.5m wide. Wider than 0.5m  but < 1m or when using a heavier frame/moulding, then double D-Rings are advised, they are more robust than single D-Rings and have two screw holes.

The Procedure for attaching D-Rings to a picture frame –

How To Use D-Rings to Hang a Picture FrameHardware required –


  1. Apply frame backing tape around each back edge for the frame/backing board to seal the frame from dust mites and dampness.
  2. Measure approximately 1/3 of the distance down on one side of the frame and mark with pencil/pen. Measure down the other side the exact same distance and mark again.
  3. Use a bradawl to poke a small hole into the frame backing at this mark on each side, this will provide a start for the screws.
  4. Line up the D-Rings and screw with the pre started holes and screw the D-rings into place. The D’s (loops) of the D-Rings should be facing each other.
  5. Tie a cord between each D-Ring and secure with a knot. Alternatively, wire and ferrules can be used instead.
  6. Finish the cord ends off with a bit of frame backing tape to stop them fraying.
  7. You picture is ready to hang on a picture hook.


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Quality X Picture Hooks now in stock

We are now stocking a quality ‘X’ Picture Hook range. The hooks are a strong grade steel, brass plated, and come supplied with quality knurled brass headed hardened pins. They come in four sizes –

 X-Hooks No 1 Picture Hooks X Picture Hooks No.1 (single pin)
 X-Hooks No 2 Picture Hooks X Picture Hooks No.2 (single pin)
 X-Hooks No3 Picture Hooks X Picture Hooks No.3 (two pin)
 X-Hooks No4 Picture Hooks X Picture Hooks No.4 (three pin)

We have pack sizes ranging from 2 to 100 hooks per pack.

The following link shows our full range of Picture Hooks

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New Website & Branding

Website Redesign (2017)

Ten years on  from starting our e-commerce site in 2007 and we find that the way people access the internet has evolved with many (if not the majority) now using mobile devices (smart phones, ipads, tablets etc). We have released a newly redesigned website along with new branding to reflect this change. It has a more modern look, easier navigation and includes both mobile and desktop versions which are designed with user experience on touch screen devices in mind. We hope you like the changes and hope they help with your shopping experience.

UK Picture Framing Supplies New Website

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New Picture Framing and Picture Hanging Products – February 2017

UK Picture Framing Supplies now has the following new products in stock for 2017 –

Hand Tools for Picture FramingHand Tools for Picture Framing

Some workshop hand tools at low prices including steel rulers, tape measures, bradawls, staple guns, screwdrivers, hex keys pliers and more.


Heavy Duty Safety Hook Zinc PlatedHeavy Duty Safety Hook Zinc Plated

A a heavy duty picture hook that limits quick removal of a frame. the hook allows the wire or hangers on the picture frame to slide into the hook. The clip then resists removal unless it is lifted and pulled at a certain angle.

Magnetic Picture Hooks and HangersMagnetic picture hooks and hangers

Some magnetic picture hooks, magnetic picture hangers and magnetic self adhesive tape for lightweight hanging applications on metal surfaces.


Gloves and Hand Protection Gloves and Hand Protection

Gloves and Hand protection, including disposable latex gloves and heavier duty gloves for tougher tasks around the workshop. Very useful when handling paint, dyes or inks.


Rubber Dust BlowerRubber Dust Blower

A rubber dust blower/puffer which can greatly help the removal of dust on a picture mount under the glass. Slightly lift the glazing and blow the dust spec away.


Staple Guns and StaplesStaple Gun

Some staple guns and staples which can be used for a variety of tasks, but are commonly used to attach a canvas print to a wooden stretching frame.


Parcel Tape Dispenser GunParcel Tape Dispenser Gun

A handy dispenser for parcel tape. Takes 50mm wide parcel tapes (both clear and brown). The end is always ready to use. As you finish your dispensing stroke a sharp serrated blade cuts the tape.


Plastic Cutting MatsPlastic Cutting Mats

We have a selection of cutting Mats available. The smooth surface allows fine blades to penetrate without blunting. It is ideal when trimming prints. Small cuts almost disappear.


corner clampClamps

Some general purpose workshop clamps. Very useful fro a variety of workshop tasks.


Resealable Poly Grip Seal BagsPoly Grip Seal Bags

A selection of general purpose poly grip seal bags.






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New Picture Framing and Picture Hanging Products – March 2016

New Picture Framing and Hanging Products 2016



We now have the following new picture framing and picture hanging products in stock –

High Quality Masking Tape 25mm x 50mHigh Quality Masking Tape

A quality masking tape, which tends to be thicker than most masking products currently used. Cream in colour, with an aggressive white adhesive system. This Masking Tape is ideal for wet painting and spray painting. It is used quite often as temporary tape during the creation of double mounts. Dimensions : 25mm x 50m.

Fillet TapeFillet Tape

Fillet Tape is a polyester double sided archival tape which acts as an acid barrier between the two surfaces it bonds. This Fillet Tape has a strong acid free adhesive which has very high tack making this a permanent tape which does not yellow over time. This Archival Tape is designed to attach the fillet or slip to the picture mount in the framing industry. Also works very well attaching and holding slips firmly to a frame. Not compatible with tape guns, but very easy to use. Dimensions : 6mm wide by 50m long.

Linen Hinging TapeLinen Tape

This is a white, gummed, acid free (pH 7 neutral) tape. This high quality textured Linen Tape is backed with water activated gum. The high thread count of the linen cloth gives this tape its strength. Gummed archival linen hinging tape is mainly used to hinge mounts(mats) to backing boards and is used widely in the framing and art conservation industries. Our Gummed Linen Archival Tape has a pH neutral, starch based adhesive which sets flat and has high tack. Size: 24mm wide, 20metres long.

Ph7-70 Double Sided ATG TapePh7-70 12mm ATG tape

Permanent adhesive, Ph neutral double sided tape 12mm x 30m. Conservation Ph neutral double sided tape ATG tape gun compatible although a tape gun is not required to use it. 12mm wide by 30m length. Ph neutral tapes are acid neutral, they use a water based acid neutral acrylic adhesive system which will not react with board or papers and can hence be used for conservation purposes. Will fit most Automatic Tape Guns (ATG) dispensers.

Double Sided ATG Tape 19mmDouble sided 19mm ATG tape

Double sided roll of adhesive tape. Suitable for ATG tape guns, although a tape gun is not required to use it. Size: 19mm wide by 33m long. Non acid free adhesive. We now stock both 12mm and 19mm versions.

ECO-25 Frame Backing Tape 38mm x 50mECO-25 38mm frame backing tape

A self-adhesive flexible sealing tape is used by many framers. It gives a cost effective yet attractive finish to the back of the frame. The flexibility of the ECO tapes, allow them to be easily shaped over the rebate steps at the back of the frame. ECO-25 tape is similar to ECO-15 tape in almost every aspect except that it is thicker, stronger, and more opaque, but also a bit more expensive.

Angled D Ring Hanger Bronze PlatedAngled D-Ring Hanger Bronze Plated

The Angled-D-Ring Hanger (one pair L+R) gives you the security of a two-screw fixing on all types of moulding, including narrow patterns. The D-ring is angled to give the correct alignment of the cord or wire, minimising stress in the frame.

Stretched Canvas Frame Picture StandStretched Canvas Frame Stands

A canvas frame picture stand for small stretched canvases up to around 300 x 300mm (12” x 12”). The stand fixes with one screw and is easily bent to make the stretched canvas print stand at any chosen angle. It is designed to fit into the hollow back of the canvas frame. Dimensions: 75mm x 15mm, zinc plated steel. Included with bumpers and screws.

Flat Graphics Panel Picture StandGraphics Panel Picture Stands

For making small and medium sized flat graphic panels of Aluminium, Acrylic, Di-Bond, Glass, Steel and similar free stand on a surface. The panel stand clips into the supplied steel self-adhesive base plate stuck onto the back of the panel. The stand is easily bent to fine adjust the standing angle. Dimensions: panel stand 75mm long, base plate is 80x40mm.

Frame Packaging, Cardboard Corners, Handy WrapHandy Wrap and Cardboard Protective Frame Corners

Packaging for picture frames, including handywrap, handy wrap handles, cardboard picture frame corner protectors and packaging tape. Useful for the packaging, protection and transportation of picture frames safely. Also useful for presentation of completed frames when ready to return to customer as it can create a professional touch.

Picture Perfect Magic Marker Frame Hanging SystemPicture Perfect Wireless Magic Marker Hanging System

Picture Perfect Wireless Magic Marker Hanging System™. Picture frame hanging made easy. Hang your picture frames quickly and easily with these benefits –
– Pictures are hung exactly where you want them, the first time and level
– No more measuring or marking, no pencils, tape measures, wire or calculations needed
– Eliminate guesswork and trial-and-error measuring
– Reduce wasted time
– No D-rings, saw-tooth hangers, picture cord or wire is required
– Position the framed art exactly where you want it
– Your framed artwork will remain safely and securely in place and permanently level
– Fits most wooden or plastic frames of => 16mm (5/8″) width


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Lightweight Self Adhesive Hangers for Mounted Prints and Photos

mounted_print_hanger_max_250g_1Lightweight self adhesive plastic hangers can be used for displaying mounted prints or mounted photographs eg during an exhibition. We currently have two hangers rated at 250 grams and 500 grams load –

Self Adhesive Plastic Hangers for Mounted Pictures – Max 250g

Self Adhesive Plastic Hangers for Mounted Pictures – Max 500g

These hangers are suitable for most hanging and displaying most mounted prints. The self adhesive pad stick onto the rear backing of a mounted print, and provides a loop that can be used to hang over a nail, screw, picture hook etc for display purposes. The hangers work well sticking to a cellophane wrap on the backside of the mounted print.

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New Products May 2015

We have started to add some new products to our range.

Self Adhesive Metal Plate Hangers for panels and boards

Self Adhesive Metal Panel HangersSelf Adhesive Metal Hangers for PanelsSelf adhesive metal plates for hanging graphic panels these come with the option of white or black adhesive, and can hang panels up to 2kg. These hangers usually work beast as a pair. Each hangers comes with 2 foam bumpers to allow the panel to sit parallel to the wall.


Security Hangers

T Screw Security Hanger  Kit for DrywallWe also now have T-Screw Security hangers for 12mm plasterboard (drywall) and T-Screw Security hangers for 24mm plasterboard (drywall). This adds to the already popular standard T-Screw Security Hanging Kits.


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Picture Frame Construction – Corner Joining With An Underpinner

A stack of joined framesPicture frames require precision cutting to achieve 45° mitred edges. This process is usually achieved by using a guillotine, which leaves perfectly smooth 45° edges.

The next step is to accurately join the four equal mitred edges together to form the frame.

Traditionally, this used to be done by hammering picture framing pins in from the sides of the frame and was not the most efficient way of creating perfect joins. You sometimes come across very old frames that have been joined this way and, although they have lasted a long time, their corners usually show gaps. Sometimes those gaps can be large as well as dangerous looking!



The industry standard method for joining picture frame corners these days is to use V-Nails (“V” shaped nails) to join the 45° corners together.

The V-nails have one sharp ‘V’ and one blunt ‘V’ end. The sharp end gets pushed into the 45° mitre wood corners. They are also designed to pull the joints together when inserted.

The industry uses underpinners to insert V-nails, and smaller types of over/under pinner are available for the hobby/enthusiast markets which do an equally good job, albeit perhaps at a slower pace.

V-nails themselves are made of hardened steel (for hard woods) and softer steel for soft woods. They come in a variety of heights to reflect the wide variety of moulding thicknesses available. They commonly come in 7 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm and 15 mm heights.

The strength of a picture frame joint comes from two main factors – the choice of V-nail size and also the adhesive that holds the join together. It’s really a combined effect.

glue on mitred joints of picture frame

PVA glue squeezed onto mitred joints of frame.

Wooden mouldings use PVA wood adhesive. Other types, like plastic mouldings, use other types of adhesive, eg fast bonding super glues.

To join a wooden frame moulding, the PVA glue is squeezed on to the mitred faces of wood. If these faces were joined like this, the glue would likely be squeezed up and onto the wooden face which is not desirable. This is especially so if you are using wood stains as the PVA leaves areas which resist wood stain penetration.

glue on mitred joints of picture frame

Smoothed PVA glue spread evenly on the surfaces.

To prevent this, and to create a nicely bonded joint, it is best to spread the glue out smoothly and thinly on each face you are about to join, working the glue into the grain. You should also make sure to wipe any excess glue off before joining. This ensures an optimally glued joint and reduces the possibility of the PVA creeping onto the face of the frame.

The mitre joints are now ready for the insertion of V-nails.

V-nail size is usually chosen based on the thickness of the moulding being used. A good rule of thumb is to choose a V-nail that goes somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of the depth of the moulding being used. If shorter V-nails are used, the joint may fail and start to open. If longer V-nails are used, you may actually punch through the front face of the frame, rendering it useless.

It is sometimes possible to use several different V-nail heights on one corner depending on the profile of the moulding. It is also possible with an underpinner to stack V-nails one on top of another, eg 2 x 10 mm V-nails go in to a 20 mm depth. This can provide some uses when you encounter deep rebate mouldings.

In this example I am using an Alfamachine minigraf underpinner to do the job. The V-nails are pushed up into the underside of the frame by a hardened steel head that is operated by a foot pedal. The upper cushioned pad descends and presses down firmly from above.

This process is repeated around every corner until the frame is completed. If  you don’t have an underpinner, the hand tool pinners/underpinner versions can be used in conjunction with clamps or strap clamps to do the same task.

A pile of underpinned, assembled wooden frames can be seen in the first image of this page. For this particular moulding, I used single 15 mm V-nails at three spacings along the mitre.

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How To Hang A Picture Frame From A Picture Rail

picture rail hook brass plated

A brass plated picture rail hook

Picture rails offer an easy way for you to hang pictures on a wall without the need for creating screw or nail holes for picture hooks. This can be useful when you want to frequently change the picture frames that are on display.

Picture rails can be made from wood, plaster and metal. Traditionally they are found in older properties with high ceilings.

Picture Rail Hooks are the most common method used for hanging a picture from a picture rail. The hooks come in a variety of sizes, styles and colours, but all generally do the same thing ie. provide an attachment hook for a cord, wire or cable to drop down for a frame to be attached to. Picture rail contours can vary so each will have a picture rail hook that work best with it in terms of size and shape.

How to hang a picture frame from a picture rail with a picture rail hook

Picture Rail SystemThe diagram on the left shows how to hang a picture frame from a traditional style picture rail. The dimensions in the vertical direction have been compressed for indicative purposes. In reality the cord or wire can run much further down the wall.

A picture rail hook used with the picture rail allows you to create a suspended hook from the picture rail where you can attach a cord, wire or cable to. (The larger hooked end of the picture rail hook goes over the picture rail).

The suspended cord, wire or cable then attaches to the rear of the picture frame. This can be done using D-Rings or simple Screw Eyes screwed into the rear of the frame allowing the picture frame to be securely held.

Attachment of the cord closer to the top of the frame will hold the frame flatter to the wall which is good if the pictures will be displayed at eye level. Attachment of the cord closer to the middle of the frame will cause the frame to tilt forward, which is good if the pictures are to be hung above eye level.

There are different ways to suspend your picture frame from a picture rail with cord or wire. The following diagram shows a few of these alternatives –

Picture Rail Hanging OptionsThe choice can come down to aesthetic appearance, but lets discuss the merits of each method –

Frame A : Would likely require the frame to have a picture cord or wire strung between both sides of the frame with D-Rings or alternatively have some type of hanger attached at the top edge of the frame (could increase bowing of that frame edge). This option may prove difficult to hold position on the wall ie. it may need to be adjusted/straightened quite a lot. Another point to note is that the whole weight of the frame is placed onto one picture rail hook.

Frame B: This method has a more evenly distributed load over two points on the picture rail and picture frame. This method of hanging would likely require some adjustable secure hangers attached to the back of the frame and used in conjunction with the picture wire, cable or suspenders in order to fine tune position and straighten the picture. The whole weight of the frame will be evenly distributed between the two picture rail hooks as well as two points on the frame.

Frame C: This method is by far the easiest option to use. It has only has one connection with the picture rail, but allows easy adjustment of the angle that the frame hangs at. Only one length of cord or wire is used, with no requirements for knots or loops on the picture rail hook. However, the whole weight of the frame is placed on one picture rail hook. The cord can be attached to each side of the frame back with Screw Eyes or D-Rings.

Picture Rail Hooks and Accessories can be found here


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Mounting and framing needlework – a tapestry

Framed tapestryI recently had a tapestry frame that I had produced for a customer a few years ago back in the framing workshop for the replacement of  the existing front mount board with an new lighter cream coloured one. The process allowed me to re-examine and photograph my previous work for inclusion and discussion in this article.

Needlework or stitched artwork is created on a variety of substrate materials, ranging from thick holed loose weaved canvas, to narrow weaved canvas, to cotton or finer more densely packed textiles. There are also some needleworks that have no substrate like laces, and these require different mounting techniques to other stitched works.

A stretched tapestry on foam board backing

A stretched tapestry on foam board backing

Mounting needlework

To mount and frame most needlework  created on a textile or meshed canvas substrate (like tapestries or cross-stitching), stretching of the fabric is required over a rigid material in order to flatten it’s surface (remove wrinkles, and distortions) and make it more presentable as a piece of artwork.

Some framing businesses can refuse to do needlework mounting and framing because of the extra time involved in the process of stretching. A needlework framing job can take an hour or more of extra time (plus extra materials) to complete compared to a regular paper based artwork framing job. As a result, the framer has to take this into account in the frame price, which in turn can lead to quite expensive framing jobs for the owner!

Laced tapestry stretched over 5mm white foam board

Laced tapestry stretched over foam board

Stretching the needlework

One method of stretching the needlework is to stretch it over a 5mm thick piece of white conservation foam board. The white foam board face will ensure that the stitch work looks bright and clear (especially if it is a slightly transparent white material). The 5mm thickness of the foam board is enough to provide suitable rigidity for the stretching process.

The needlework has to be pinned down into position, and then laced similarly to shoe laces but in both horizontal and vertical directions. The ends are tied away and it should resemble a criss-cross laced pattern on the back as shown in the image on the right. The choice of lacing should be suitable for the material being stretched. In this case a thicker cord has been used as there are wide holes in the tapestries open weave canvas substrate.

Foam board recess on rear of mount

Foam board recess on rear of mount

The mount

The mount used for surrounding a needlework, should have a foam board surround on its back side, shaped to fit the stretched and laced needlework. The mount bevel edge is sized to overlap the foam board so it is not seen. It also should hide the rougher edges of the stretched tapestry artwork. The mount itself is a triple mount which keeps the raised texture of the tapestry off of the glass surface.

Stretched tapestry sitting into foam board mount recess

Stretched tapestry sitting into foam board mount recess

Finishing the frame

Once the needlework has been stretched, it can then be placed into the mount and will look like the image on the right. There should be no slack between the stretched needlework and the surrounding foam board. This will prevent the stretched needlework from moving within the mount. It’s now time to replace the backing board and finish the frame off.



Reassembled frame with backing board attached

Reassembled frame with backing board attached

The frame back is completed with backing tape, several canvas offset clamps (as the thick mount is deeper than the frame rebate), D-Rings, felt pads and low stretch picture cord.

The finished frame front is shown in the first picture in this article.


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